The use of chemical peels to soften and improve the appearance of the skin, dates back to the ancient Egyptians. Little did they know that they were benefiting from the superficial skin peeling effects of hydroxy acids; lactic acid in the milk they were bathing in and tartaric acid in the grape skins they rubbed on their skin. Today, scientists have identified numerous forms of acid which can be used to induce beneficial changes for our skin, including salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and phenol.

Chemical peeling (chemexfoliation) involves the application of a chemical solution to the surface of the skin to produce the careful removal of its outer layers. The amount of skin removed will depend on the type of chemical used, the strength of the product (superficial, medium depth and deep) and how long it is left on the skin. They can be used on most areas of the body, but are commonly used on the face or the backs of the hands to improve rough skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, sun damage, blemishes, scars or acne and actinic keratosis (precancerous skin growth). Private costs for chemical peels depend upon the type of peel and problem being treated.

Product Brands

Skinceuticals Gel Peel

Image Peels

Dermaceutic Peels

Mene & Moy ® Peels

Skintech Peels

SUPERFICIAL PEELS with Skinceuticals Gel Peel

Product Summary

Launched in the UK in October 2004, SkinCeuticals Gel Peels are an excellent adjunct to microdermabrasion or IPL; and are ideal for those people who want to `prep` their skin prior to a more invasive peel. As they are a light peel they also have no down-time.

What does it contain?

Glycolic and Lactic acids

Salicylic and Mandelic acids

Is this a superficial, medium or deep peel?

Superficial

What skin problems does it claim to treat?

They freshen up the face and can help to treat acne, break down hyperpigmentation (areas of darker pigment or brown patches in the skin), dry skin, fine lines and wrinkles, photodamage, rough texture and ageing skin.

Suitable for ethnic skins.

Licenced status

Not applicable as it is a superficial peel.

Should be used by

Trained members of the medical profession only and beauty therapists (NVQ3 level and above) who have received training by Skinceuticals.

Costs

This depends on area treated and how much is required, and the practitioner doing the treatment, but ranges are in the region of £50.00 to £80.00 per treatment session.

Medium peels with Dermaceutic Peels

Product Summary

Dermaceutic chemical peels are a medical peel and can only be carried out by trained doctors and nurses. They are not available in the high street and should not be confused with very mild and gentle peels available from beauty therapists.

The Dermaceutic skincare range which accompany the peel products, as part of an at-home treatment programme, contain a variety of antioxidants and alpha-hyroxy-acids to help achieve the best results from the chemical peeling programmes.

What do Dermaceutic chemical peels contain?

Depending on the particular Dermaceutic chemical peel product used, it may contain: glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or mandelic acid. (See product range details below for further information).

Is this a superficial, medium or deep peel?

Very superficial to medium depth peels.

What skin problems do they claim to treat?

The Dermaceutic chemical peel range, in combination with special at-home skincare creams, can treat various skin conditions and disorders.

They can be used to freshen up the skin and can help to treat acne, oily skin, pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, photodamage and ageing skin. Some formulations within the range are also suitable for treating stretch marks and melasma.

They can be used on the face, the neck, the chest, the body and the hands. Most, but not all, are suitable for all skin types/colours. Cosmo Peel should only be used on skin types I – III (fair to medium skin colours).

Licenced status

Medical device

Should be used by

Trained members of the medical profession only. They should not be used by beauty therapists.

Product range

In-Clinic Peel Products

Mask Peel

Very Superficial Peel

30% glycolic acid, pH2.5. For treating acne, oily skin, removing dead skin cell and deeply cleansing

Milk Peel

Superficial Peel

50% glycolic acid, salicylic and lactic acids, pH1.7. For fine wrinkle reduction, skin lightening, oily skin regulation and spot treatment.

Cosmo Peel

Medium Peel

15% & 18% TCA. Used in conjunction with Cosmo Peel Cream. For skin rejuvenation of sun damaged or acne damaged skin and stretch marks.

Spot Peel

Medium Peel

15% mandelic acid, 5% idebenone. 5% emblica, 5% retinol and 5% salicylic acid. Used in conjunction with Milk Peel. For treating melasma, pigmentation spots and post-inflammatory pigmentation.

At-home Products

Cleanser 5

Glycolic acid (5%) cleansing milk for day and night use.

Foamer 15

Glycolic acid (15%) cleansing foam for day and night use. Gentle peeling effect.

Serum 25

Antioxidant day care serum. Vitamins C, A, E and B, plus polypenols.

Turnover

Glycolic acid night care cream for skin rejuvenation.

Light Ceutic

Glycolic acid, phytic acid and vitamin C lightening cream for night care.

K Ceutic

Intensive repair post treatment cream with K complex and SPF 40.

Hyal Ceutic

Hyaluronic acid moisturising and repairing fluid.

Yellow Cream

Depigmenting night care with 22.5% lightening agents.

Sun Ceutic

High sun protection factor of SPF50.

Peel programme

Mask Peel

The skin will be cleaned with Dermaceutic Cleanser 5, rinsed with water and a thin layer of Mask Peel applied over the face, and then left for 2 minutes before rinsing with water.

Treatment can be repeated every 2 weeks for a total of 4 sessions.

Milk Peel

Prior to treatment it is recommended that Dermaceutic Serum 25 is applied twice daily to the face for a minimum of 2 weeks, along with Turnover or Light Ceutic in the evenings. This is said to improve peel results as well as identifying any areas of skin which are sensitive to glycolic acids.

The skin will be cleaned with Dermaceutic Cleanser 5, rinsed with water and 2ml of Milk Peel applied over the face, and then left for 1 to 2 minutes before rinsing with water.

Direct sunlight should be avoided post-treatment and a sunscreen worn, such as Sun Ceutic. In the case of redness or irritation, repair creams such as K Ceutic and Hyal Ceutic may be applied. After 1 day (or once any redness and irritation has gone completely) it is recommended to continue with the use of Serum 25, Turnover or Light Ceutic.

Treatment can be repeated every 2 weeks for a total of 3 – 4 sessions.

Cosmo Peel

Prior to treatment it is recommended that Dermaceutic Serum 25 is applied twice daily to the face for a minimum of 2 weeks, along with Turnover or Light Ceutic in the evenings. This is said to improve peel results as well as identifying any potential allergies or skin sensitivities.

The skin will be cleaned with Dermaceutic Cleanser 5, rinsed with water and 1.5ml of TCA (15% or 18%) applied over the face, and then left to dry for 1 minute. 1.5ml of Cosmo Peel Cream will then be applied and the face rinsed with water at home after 12 hours.

Direct sunlight should be avoided post-treatment and a sunscreen worn, such as Sun Ceutic. . In the case of redness or irritation, repair creams such as K Ceutic and Hyal Ceutic may be applied. After 1 – 3 days (or once any redness and irritation has gone completely) it is recommended to continue with the use of Serum 25, Turnover or Light Ceutic.

Treatment can be repeated every 2 weeks for a total of 3 – 4 sessions.

Spot Peel

Prior to treatment it is recommended that Dermaceutic Light Ceutic is applied twice daily to the face for a minimum of 2 weeks. This is said to improve peel results as well as identifying any potential allergies or skin sensitivities.

The skin will be cleaned with Dermaceutic Cleanser 5, rinsed with water and 2ml of Milk Peel applied over the face, and then left for 1 minute. 3ml of Spot Peel Cream with then be applied and the face rinsed with water at home after a maximum of 8 hours. For maximum effect Spot Peel Cream should be applied at night and K Ceutic in the morning for 1 month. The Spot Peel Cream may be replaced by Yellow Cream according to instructions from your practitioner.

Spot Peel may be applied again after 1 month if the desired results have still not been achieved such as in the case of severe melasma.

Peels not to be used in

Pregnant/breastfeeding women or those already on a chemical peeling or laser skin rejuvenation programme, or using retinol products.

Recent scarring, depilation (hair removal) and sun burn are also not suitable for chemical peel treatment, along with skin infections such as herpes.

Reported side effects

Redness and irritation may occur in the first 1 – 3 days post treatment, which can be managed with at-home skincare products until it is resolved.

Your practitioner will discussany potential side effects in a consultation.

Costs

This depends on area and condition treated, the type of peel used and how much is required, and the practitioner doing the treatment, but ranges are in the region of:

£300  to £500  with the associated home use skincare package.

Medium to Deep peels with Skintech Peels

Product Summary

Skintech Peels are a medical peel and can only be carried out by trained doctors and nurses. They are not available in the high street and should not be confused with very mild and gentle glycolic peels available from beauty therapists.

Peel Range

Easypytic – 70% Glycolic acid with mendolic acid and phytic acid.

Easypeel – 15% Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)

Unideep – 23% TCA

Onlytouch – 40% TCA

Are they superficial, medium or deep peel?

Superficial to medium depth peels.

What skin problems do they claim to treat?

The skintech peel range in combination with special creams can treat various skin conditions and disorders.

They can be most effective in reversing sun damage, treating mild acne, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, removing hyperpigmentation, liver spots and other visible signs of ageing.

They can be used on the face, the neck, the chest and the hands.

Easyphytic and Easypeel can be used on all types of skin e.g. fine skin, normal skin or greasy or thick skin. It can also be used safely and effectively on black and Asian skin.

Licenced status

Medical device.

Should be used by

Trained members of the medical profession only. It should not be used by beauty therapists.

Product range

There are a number of special creams available to be used in combination with the Skintech Peel range.

These include:

Moisturising and Anti Oxidant Cream with Vitamin E.

Depigmentation and Anti Oxidant Cream (Bleaching and Blending).

Anti-aging Cream with DHEA.

A+C+E Hypervitaminised Anti-Aging Cream.

Anti-Acne cream.

Not to be used in

Pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Peel Program

This depends on the type of peel used within the range, and also the type of problem that is being treated. Please discuss with your practitioner for more details.

Reported side effects

Erythema, and post-inflammatory pigment changes may be seen after a peel.

Costs

Again, this depends on area treated, and the practitioner doing the treatment.

Guidelines are:

Superfiacl peel £50-£60

Medium peels £150- £300

Deep peels £350 to £750

It is very important that you carefully follow the advice of Dr Molina following a peel treatment to help to improve the benefit of the procedure and reduce the risk of complications or side effects.

POST SUPERFICIAL PEELS ADVICE

-Cleansing the face gently with a soap-free cleanser, pat the skin dry with a towel, and

moisturise twice a day;

-Not picking off any dead or peeling skin as this may cause bleeding and discoloration, or even mild scarring;

-Not exposing yourself to the sun without a sunscreen for at least 6 weeks after treatment to reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation (brown blotches on the face) A high factor sunblock should be used daily to protect the skin;

-Contact us immediately if you notice any signs of infection or pigment changes.

POST MEDIUM AND DEEP PEELS ADVICE

-Use of mild painkillers, such as paracetamol, if required;

-Gently splashing your face with warm water and patting dry with a towel. Mineral oil may also be recommended to help to cleanse the skin gently;

-If itching is severe during the healing phase, antihistamines may be recommended to help stop this symptom.

-Sleeping on your back with your head propped up by a few pillows to help reduce swelling in the face;

-Follow up a couple of days after treatment to check that he is happy with your recovery;

-Avoid strenuous exercise for a couple of weeks to allow healing to happen without sudden jarring to the face;

-Avoid scratching or picking at the skin to reduce the chances of scarring;

-Start using a sunscreen after the skin has healed, and avoiding any direct sun exposure for around 6 weeks;

Contact us immediately if you notice any signs of infection, scarring or pigment changes

Additionally, when you leave a clinic after a chemical peel treatment you are likely to suffer from varying degrees of redness depending on the depth of the peel, which may not be the most attractive face that you wish to present to the public as you walk down the street. There is however a solution.

Lycogel® are the first truly breathable, completely safe camouflage and concealer products that oxygenate skin at the cellular level, and are suitable for immediate use after cosmetic procedures such as chemical peels. It is the only foundation that has the ability to promote the healing of damaged or postprocedural skin and can be used on the skin immediately following treatment, allowing you to face the world without a red face.

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